Hose for her

I was supposed to post this months ago, but I've been distracted by life and a child and fuzzy bunnies and fish and Face Book. 
Late 14^th Century Hose

Tools & Materials
1.5 yds. maroon wool twill (original was madder red tabby)
2 yds. striped cotton muslin
pins
permanent marker
scissors
tailor’s chalk
cotton thread (linen or wool for more accuracy)
needle

Process

Patterning: Use striped cotton cut on the bias in a large trapezoid to pattern the hose, left and right, carefully label them Left/Right and Inside/Outside (see brown stripe pattern in the bag). 
- A single piece for each leg folded and pinned at the natural crease created by the arch of your foot gives the correct placement for the saddle seam – it is higher than you think it will be, so this is important.   Pin from the arch back towards the heel and forward towards the toes, pulling the fabric into place and adjusting as necessary.  There is a lot of re-pinning, readjust the heel, wash-rinse-repeat. 
- Once the foot is in place, pin up the back of the leg, pulling and adjusting so the fabric lays relatively flat on the front of your leg.  Extra length even for short hose is a good idea. Once everything is pinned in place, use a permanent marker to draw along the pin line of the pattern.  This takes about an hour, (no pictures, there were pins on the bottom of my feet).

Cutting: Lay the pattern on the bias and cut the pieces out with ample seam allowance, about 2” except over the saddle where it should be about ¾”. 

Basting: It is very important to baste as each fabric will need slight adjustments even after the pattern is refined.  Pin & baste the saddle seam, stretching it to fit in order to create a curved seam.  Fit each side to the leg with pins, and draw with chalk along the pin line on both sides of the fabric.  Turn and pin the fabric right sides together.  Baste from the instep seam toward the toes, stopping just before the end.  Baste from the instep seam back around the heel to the ankle and stop to check the fit, make adjustments – the ankle should be as snug as possible and still be able to get it over your heel.  Finish the toe seam, turn it in and pin.  Finish the leg seam.  Check the fit again.

Sewing:  Whip stitch and tack the toe in place.  Backstitch from the toe to the saddle seam.  Backstitch around the saddle seam.  Continue backstitching the seam under the foot, up around the heel and leg.  Make any final adjustments.  Remove the basting stitches (I did not so you can see where they are).  Fell the saddle seam towards the toes.  Open the back seam and tack it down with a running stitch. 
Blanket stitch along the top to secure the edge, (this may have been turned over in the original).

The fit is not perfect, but they are quite comfortable, and I have room to move my ankles.  Reinforcing the seam helps the hose stay up as well as lay flat.  The seam underfoot does not bother at all.  Additional pieces can be added to the sole as the hose wear out, or for extra padding.  Because the stitching line is exposed and under tension, plan on making regular repairs.  Garters are necessary.

An amusing note: looking at extant hose, you can tell who made their own and who was fitted by someone else by the angle of the ankle.  Self-made hose have a pointed toe from putting one leg up on your knee, fitted hose have a sharper angle from the person standing while being fitted.  I observed this on mine vs. my husband’s and laughed.