Way back when (2012) I decided to make this crazy bell sleeve dress based on the Hortus Delicarum from 1180, and the allegorical figures gracing those pages. I haven't seen it in ages because it is imossible to nurse in it. (I may have blogged about this on AB&WOC). Both of these garments are hand finished, though my husband's cote is a bit worse for wear having been laundered with a friend's clothes on hot in a washing machine. The gown is a fairly standard construction, but the modern paper cut-out sleeve drove me nuts.
Nope nope nope. I think these sleeves became a baby gown. The "pattern" came from Karl Kohler's ancient costuming book. While it is filled with conjecture, there is some good info. The underarm seam should not be at the underarm or you risk "paper angel" happening. The elbow binds, the sleeves fall forward in the way and it is generally awful. 
The drape happens from the bend of the elbow and is aided by the weight of the fabric. Go with something heavier and a tight weave like a twill, but not stiff. This is a 1:2 twill in summer weight wool and soft, heavy linen. Light & airy is the wrong choice here, though silk is a possibility. A silk/wool blend would be superb. 
Infinitely better. The seam sits at the back of the shoulder, the fabric turns down around the elbow and baggs and drapes as it should. When you reach forward the bell falls back and doesn't eat your hand. If you were to hold everything straight the bell would be pointing up.This seems horribly backwards if you don't account for drape. The drape & twist are what make this work.
There is some evidence in the illuminations and sculptures of the time to support the sleeve seam higher up than we think it ought to be. If I were to do it again, I might add a gusset to help it fit my bust better. That would eliminate the pull there. Quite frankly, fitting a slender person is not at all the same as fitting someone with a lot more horizontal than vertical elements.
